Sunday, April 2, 2023

How to Create Time Lapse Videos with Pan and Zoom

In This Issue:

  • How to create Time Lapse videos with Pan and Zoom
  • 20-second Photoshop Tips
  • Shooting in Cold Temperatures
  • The Usual Announcements
  • A new Zoom lecture for Photo Clubs

How to create Time Lapse Videos with Pan and Zoom

Have a look at the time lapse video below:



Time lapse videos like this are produced by placing your camera on a tripod, taking a series of pictures at regular intervals (in this case 217 images taken every 10 seconds), and then turning those single images into a movie using video editing software later on.  But notice that in this brief clip, the camera is panning left-to-right.  That usually requires an expensive motion control rig that I don't own.  So how was it done?

The ability to pan after-the-fact in a video like this is possible thanks to the relatively small size of video files compared to the large number of megapixels modern cameras can capture.  For example, in the illustration below, the green square represents the image size in pixels of the Sony A7R V, where the pink square represents the size in pixels of an HD video:
So realistically you can move that pink square anywhere in the frame and achieve your panning effect.  If you're rendering in 4K, you have a little less leeway but it is still possible:

I've used this technique many times in the past - replacing several cameras with just one 4K wide shot, and simulating many different camera angles, like in this blog post here.

So that's how it's done in theory.  In practice you need a video editor that has pan and zoom capabilities, which most of the free online video editing apps lack.  For years I've used a video editor called Vegas (once owned by Sony; now owned by Magix), and I can show you what I did in that program to achieve the effect.  Adobe Premier Pro (probably more popular than Vegas) can do this also.

How I created the video
  1. First, I captured the time lapse with my camera.  (Most modern cameras have this feature built-in; but if you don't there are 3rd party devices that can automate this.)
  2. DON'T use the software that came with your camera to make a video first.  That will just produce an HD video and you won't be able to pan around in that.  You want to start with the full-resolution images so that you have room to pan and zoom.
  3. In Vegas, go to OPTIONS --> Preferences --> Editing, and set "New Still Image Length (seconds) to 0.051.  Also set Cut-to-overlap conversion (seconds): to 0.051.  Hit Apply and OK.

4.  Watch the video below for the rest:



20-second Photoshop Tips for Impatient Photographers

Programs like Photoshop and Lightroom have extremely steep learning curves, and I'd speculate that most users of those programs aren't familiar with most of their capabilities. 

Lately I've discovered short videos on Instagram which show you how to do some very cool things with Photoshop.  Check out these accounts:

All of these accounts show you how to do something cool in Photoshop in 20 seconds.  I actually learn something new from most of them.


From a learning point of view, these videos probably don't go much beyond "Wow, I didn't know this technique".  The downside is that without some practice and reinforcement you'll be less likely to remember the technique when you need it.  And it's the nature of Instagram to not be able to find things again once you scroll past them. :-(

In the Pipeline

  • v2.0 of the A7R V book should be completed before the end of April.  It will include new material for the recently announced Firmware 2.0.  You'll automatically receive a new download link if you purchased the download from the FriedmanArchives website or you registered your purchase (from somewhere else) with me.
  • .epub and .azw3 versions of Tony Phillips' Fujifilm X-T5 ebook are now available!  You should have received a notification; if not email me your purchase receipt.
  • No, I won't be writing a book on the new ZV E-1.  I've learned that the demographic for the ZV series doesn't care to read; they just want to press the big red button and video themselves.


Shooting in Cold Tempertures

Real Letters from Real Readers

Dear Gary,  It would sure be helpful if you have some insights on doing expedition or other type photography in challenging temperatures or other challenged etc. to have some information in your excellent texts. I often photograph in up to minus 15 C with a Sony A1. - Wynne Powell

Dear Wynne,  

I try really hard not to just mirror manufacturer's specs in my books (you can find those just by googling them - you go to my books for insights you can't google), which is why I never mention temperature ranges.  It's a very fickle thing to specify anyway; as it is the nature of electronics from any manufacturer to fail at low temperatures, and usually it's the batteries that die first.  (And even then it depends on the % change of the battery.)  The advice I offer for cold-weather shooting is:

1) Keep lots of spare batteries in your pants pockets, close to your skin to keep them warm before using them.

2) Try to keep the camera warm when not shooting.   (That one's kind of obvious.)

3) Use the electronic shutter when you can.  Lubricants for moving parts (like the shutter) can freeze at sub-zero temperatures; using the electronic shutter means practically no moving parts.

4) Keep a lens cloth available to take care of condensation which never seems to go away.  One time while in Newfoundland I applied anti-fog drops (designed to keep scuba divers' masks clear) on my lens.  It worked marginally well.

5) KEEP THE LITTLE COVER FOR THE HOT SHOE IN THE SLOT AT ALL TIMES.  Moisture, ice, and conductive rocks can get in there and short out those little tiny electrical contacts at the front edge of the hot shoe, causing all sorts of strange error messages and camera lock-up.

Hope this helps!  GF


New Zoom Talk on AI-generative Imagery

I'm in the process of creating a new zoom lecture for photo clubs, talking about the new field of AI-generative art.  I'll provide examples, how they're made, the history of lying with the image, and what repercussions this new capability will have for photographers in particular and society in general.  Let me know if your photo club would like to be put on the waiting list!

Type in some words, get an image.  What will this mean for the future of photography?  And what are the potential implications for society in general when it becomes so easy to create believable disinformation??  


Until next time,
Yours Truly, Gary Friedman


This content was created by a human, without the aid of A.I. or machine learning tools.  (Except for that last image of the frog, of course. :-))


9 comments:

  1. We perhaps will each need our own "AI defense bots" that can help identify misinformation along the spectrum of misinformation genres (e.g., text; video; still images; recordings; etc.). Kind of like a *reversed* Turing Testing approach modified such that our buddy AI estimates on our behalf what kind of entity (human, computer, or maybe both) generated the material and then rates the information for accuracy and other informational integrity considerations.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Interesting idea, and you're certainly not the first to suggest such a thing. My problem with the idea is what happens to a person whose output is falsely labeled as "Machine generated" even though it's not? Would a professor lose his position? Would a college applicant be denied entry?

      Delete
    2. The day after this discussion, the Washington Post published an article on this very topic entitled "We tested a new ChatGPT-detector for teachers. It flagged an innocent student." The subtitle is "Five high school students helped our tech columnist test a ChatGPT detector coming from Turnitin to 2.1 million teachers. It missed enough to get someone in trouble." Article at https://www.washingtonpost.com/technology/2023/04/01/chatgpt-cheating-detection-turnitin/

      Delete
  2. Patrick H. CorriganApril 2, 2023 at 3:28 PM

    Thanks, Gary. BTW, DaVinci Resolve also has a pan-and-zoom function that will do this as well.

    ReplyDelete
  3. "Hi there! Gary Friedman here, publisher of the ebook you purchased for your mirrorless camera". Sorry Gary I never purchased a mirrorless camera. I have an A77M2 and an A99M2 cameras. I suspect the majority of your followers now have mirrorless but I still enjoy your articles but never took to the mirrorless largely due to their small size and lack of comfort in the hand,

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Whoops! Sorry. I keep forgetting to be inclusive. Thanks for keeping me honest. :-)

      Delete
  4. Gary.
    All the points you make in your reply to Wynne are spot on.
    As a keen ski photographer I have been shooting with A mount and E mount cameras down to minus 25 C for the last 12 years, I would add some of additional points.
    1. Wind Chill. If you are experiencing windchill, then so will the camera. So protect it. A chest mounted top loader if you want it to hand or in your back pack with added insulation for the longer hauls.
    2. Never Change Lens out in the cold. As you are letting the cold get to the core of the camera. In snow covered terrain you always have snow and ice particles in the air, so they will end up a blobs on your sensor. Later turning to moisture inside the camera.
    Aim to go out each day with one lens per camera and not change it whilst outdoors. Not even in your car. Only change lens in warm clean places like your hotel room.
    3. Condensation. When you come in form the cold leave the camera in your backpack to warm up slowly. For example, until after dinner, then change batteries, memory cards and lens, ready for the next day. Put it back in the back pack ready for the following day and go to bed, knowing that there is no reason to take it out until you are shooting the following day.
    4. Manufacturers Recommended Temperature Ranges. Sony does not recommend use of the current E mount cameras below 0 C. I have used a A7r IVA to minus 15 C and a A99 II to minus 25 C. Both were protected from the elements when not in hand shooting and all batteries were kept in an inner chest pocket close to core body warmth. Both worked just fine. Had they not I am sure Sony would have told me it was my problem not theirs.

    Hope these help Wynne and others to enjoy taking winter photos.

    ReplyDelete

Thank you for your comment! All comments must be approved by a moderator before they will appear.