Establishing shot in Windhoek |
In this issue:
- Announcements
- Next Time in Cameracraft Magazine
- My Worst Trip Ever
- Sony A6700 Ebook is just a couple of weeks away from being completed! You can pre-order your copy at a discount before it's released. It will be available in all the usual formats.
- Version 2.0 of the Friedman Archives Seminars will be hitting the road soon. (More details next month. Let me know if your local photo club would like to bring me over at no cost!)
- Wanna use your camera on an African Safari? I'm currently looking into arranging a photo safari for November 2024. Come give your high-end equipment something to do and shoot with me! (Email me for more info... Gary at Friedman Archives dot com.)
SEBASTIAO SALGADO - Peru 1977. Image originally appeared here. |
Split tree sunrise. Got up at 4AM to take this. |
Well, I’ll tell you anyway. It was Namibia. In the middle of the African continent. And my negative experience had more to do with me than it did with the country I was visiting.
I was there in 1997 as part of a
cadre of photographers to help document the country just seven years after
gaining its independence from South Africa.
My customer was the Namibian government, who would use the pictures to
help promote tourism. We were granted
access to diamond mines, 5-star eco-tourism hotels (they weren’t called that
then, but that’s what they were), and the best of what the country had to offer. But as much as possible we tried to get away
from the official tour and hang out with the populace to better learn what
things were really like.
Ships in Namdock early morning |
Namibia is actually a beautiful country, and like any place
that’s different from what you know, you have to develop an appreciation for
what it offers. But at the time I didn't
think highly of it at all. My first
jarring realization was that although it stopped being a German colony back in
World War 1, the Germans continued to run the place. German companies owned the gem and rare
metals mines; they owned most of the
major businesses, they heavily influenced the local education, and they seemed
to do their best to suppress the native culture. The politicians were all German, as was the
food served at the hotels. The entire
trip I kept thinking to myself, “How dare they rape another country and treat
the indigenous people like dirt![1]”
One of the eco-tourist hotels – about a dozen domes in the middle of nowhere. |
Lesson #1: What’s
worse than being judgmental?
Lesson #2: That
was a rhetorical question; the answer is “The only thing worse than being
judgmental is being judgmental while imposing a foreign set of standards from
another culture. With an arrogant and
self-righteous bent.” Yeah, that was
me. I’m not proud of it. I'm sure the German leadership felt that they were doing good for the country.
Being judgmental is not a good way to behave – either as a traveler or as
an ambassador. Even if my observations
were accurate. One of the reasons
Americans have developed a bad reputation over the years is their expectation
that everywhere they go will be just like America, or everything will be judged
relative to what they’re used to in America.
Well, just like pixel-peeping is not a valid way to evaluate picture
quality, neither is comparing other, less-well-off countries to your own,
either in lifestyle, politics, or values.
It is what it is.
Another eco-tourist hotel - Nkasa Lupala lodge in the Namib desert. |
The other valuable lesson for me was the understanding that
I’m responsible for my own moods – nobody else.
This lesson was a result of one of the other photographers I was traveling
with – while most of them were outstanding human beings, there was one just
rubbed me the wrong way. He was
self-centered, verbally abusive, had a short temper, and was very demanding of
the native help. His flare-ups made me
angry on several occasions and more often than not would serve to ruin the trip
for me. Had I been wiser I would have
applied Lesson #3, which is “I’m in
charge of my own mood – nobody else. I
will not give anyone else permission to sour my mood; if it happens then it’s
my own damn fault.” Life for me got much
better once I figured that out – you just can’t give other people -- especially
other strangers -- permission to futz with how you feel.
A family going to town in Hardap. |
This rule can be extrapolated to, “Happiness is a choice,
and I’m completely responsible for my own happiness. My happiness cannot be conditional upon the
actions of others. If others are
incompetent or in a bad mood then I feel bad for them but that has nothing to
do with me.” Later I learned that all
the great spiritual teachers herald this in one form or another. Once again, I re-invent the wheel.
The equipment I brought with me was state-of-the-art at the
time: Minolta Maxxum 9000 and Maxxum 700si, along with three lenses: Minolta 80-200 f/2.8, 24-70 f/2.8, and a Sigma 18-24. Everything was shot on Fujichrome slides (50,
100, 400 ISO).
More of some of my favorite images from that trip are below. As always, click on any of them for a larger and sharper version.
[1] A second thought occurred to me as well on more than one occasion: “How dare they do to Namibia what they accused the Jews of doing to Germany during WW II! What hypocrites!” (Cue the hate mail from Germany in 3...2...1...)
The sands really were red... I intensified the effect by shooting at dusk and underexposing. |
This used to be a luxury home before the town was abandoned
and it was overtaken by sand. |
Cuteness. |
Trees lit by a 25 watt light (10 minute exposure) |
I was hoping that you were not going to say your visit to Scotland and experience of our single track roads on the island of Mull in the West Highlands!
ReplyDeleteWe LOVED Scotland! Want to go back. Maybe another seminar next year... Maybe by that time notes issued by the Bank of Scotland will be accepted in stores south of Manchester. :-)
DeleteIt's well nigh impossible to use Scottish banknotes in Manchester today - and if the SNP gets its way, they'll be unacceptable south of the border and likely worthless everywhere.
DeleteKeep your obnoxious politics out of it. This is a photo web site
DeleteThe problem with the Scottish notes was they were too easy to forge, and in a shocking development when people (err, criminals) discovered they could just print their own money…
DeleteHaving so many around led to places in England stopping taking them…
(Different Anonymous to above.)
Everytime I get cut off on an Interstate, I apply Lesson #3.
ReplyDelete:-)
DeleteAs a regular reader of your blogs I find that I usually agree with most of what you say though not always, what you wrote about your Namibia trip I can say that I am 100% in agreement, especially about being responsible for our own mood.
ReplyDeleteWhat a pity - have you been back since? I lived in Zambia for 20 years - loved it and had many Zambian friends. In ‘97 I was back in UK and now in Australia. We couldn't get to Namibia from Zambia when I was there, though we did honeymoon in Chobe, Botswana, before it was popular and all fancy 5*. Now retired, have been back to Zambia several times, did a self-drive tour of Namibia, and a camping safari through Botswana. We always self-drive where possible, which is most places, and avoid the 5* places like the plague - full of tourists and false luxury!!!
ReplyDelete"Tourists??? Ewwwww...." :-)
DeleteSorry Gary - I do appreciate how you would much rather get to know the country and it’s people. It is just that, like you I think, we have had some horrible experiences with other tourists especially in 5* venues. Mostly these do seem to be Americans, Germans or Australians!! Possibly that is because these are all three relatively rich countries. In Namibia we did meet some of the longterm residents of German extraction, including the Head Mistress of one of the most privileged schools in Windhoek, and found them good, caring people. Yes, these countries have colonial legacies, one of which is often language - the language of the ex colonial power. In many cases that is English as in Zambia. But there is no one common language in the country other than that. There are at least 50 individual languages amongst the tribes in Zambia so it is easier to use English as the lingua franca. In Zimbabwe, also “English”, there are two main tribal languages, and those two tribes have often been at loggerheads. English is “neutral”. East Africa has Swahili, but that is not commonly understood in Central Africa.
DeleteKeep up the good work. Have just decided to upgrade to the a6700, and look forward to receiving your manual. Past manuals have been extremely good - a real lifesaver for me.
With an increasingly interest, I'm reading Your blog. "The worst place ever..." I remembered 95% similarities to my trip to Mali, especially the city of Gao in 1999. As a German who lived in quite a lot different country, and still traveling to noncommen tourist places I agree with You: "The only thing worse than being judgmental is being judgmental while imposing a foreign set of standards from another culture. With an arrogant and self-righteous bent". I'm an International Election observer meeting with observers from 20+ different countries, like in April in Kazakhstan, or in july in Usbekistan, to name only 2 countries in 2023 out of the countries I visited since 30+ years and guess what I hear also from some, only SOME!, US colleagues: "....in our country....". My answer is: Just take it as it is. Cultures are different and it's (mostly) good the way it
ReplyDeleteis. For my expierences, there are two kinds of traveller: One wants do dive in into the culture of the country and the other one is expecting the food and the toast and the water and the beer, like back home. And there are two different tourism manager in the countries: One wants to have the tourist expierence the real culture of the country and the other one wants to have him feel as comfortable as back home in "his" country. Because some tourist a in a bad mood, if they are missing the "ceasar dressing" for the salad, they are used to back home, in a lodge in Jordan, in a Hotel in Azerbaidschan, or in a restaurant in Tuscany.
That's they way people are, mostly from western countries.
First of all, congratulations for not being "that American traveler". Those folks just give us a bad name. But it's a conundrum for the travel organizer who firmly believes that travel expands the mind but doesn't want to scare away the paying customers. Is it better that they stay home? Would the US just become more isolationist as a result?
DeleteCongratulations on another excellent blog post. Helpful, encouraging with great photos. You set a very high bar my friend. Well done.
ReplyDeleteThanks! GF
DeleteWhat beautiful photos, but also a wonderful narrative about your
ReplyDeleteexperiences in Namibia. Unfortunately, I no longer have a camera (stolen last year in Botswana), but partly because of these engaging topics, I always read your blogs with great pleasure. Thank you very much for that.
Kind regards from the Netherlands, Charles
Thank you for sharing
ReplyDeleteKnowing Salgado's work well, I find the charge ridiculous. He simply
ReplyDeleteportrays. As Lisa Hostetler puts it: "His photographs impart the dignity
and integrity of his subjects without forcing their heroism or implicitly
soliciting pity, as many other photographs from the Third World do.
Salgado's photography communicates a subtle understanding of social and economic situations that is seldom available in other photographers' representations of similar themes."
Regards,
Erich Keser
“ Actually, the photograph was perfect, as was most of Salgado's work.”
DeleteSo, even if, like you, I admire Salgado’s work, I have the right to not like one of his photographs, right?
And then, I like it quite enough to use it as motivation for my essay.
I hope you like the essay once is printed, I can only thanks Gary and David for the great editing job they did.
Pako, I apologize for saying "ridiculous". I should have written "difficult to understand". My reaction came from the I-hope- mistaken (mis?)apprehension that you were engaging in "identity politics", a form of ritual political performance that deals with forms rather than realities by essentially celebrating victimhood and seeking to evoke feelings of shame and guilt.
Delete